pattern review · sewing

{ VOGUE 8827 } Ready for Autumn…

She’s done. Finally.  Autumn can now begin. Vogue8827_front

Many of you have probably already seen my previous posts on the journey thus far with the Vogue 8827 and while Ive had my fair share of hurdles from the “ready steady”, I have quite enjoyed the process.

After sewing multiple no-brainers all summer, like the McCalls 6751 (eerhm twice) to the DKNY LBD and the New Look 6150 (again twice), I decided it was time to dig into something a little more advanced. Vogue8827_back

So without further ado, here are the deets on the pattern :

{ DESCRIPTION } Very loose-fitting, wrap dress. Has front extending into collar with various draped fronts. Self-lined yoke back, inside ties & belt. I sewed up a mash-up of all three versions. I sewed View C with only one draped collar front, 3/4 sleeves & knee-ish length.

{ FABRIC USED } A beautiful berry coloured viscose jersey for €6/m. The colour is perfect for Autumn but the fabric did have me cursing a little.

{ SIZING } After ready a few of the previous reviews on PR I decided to cut my dress 2 sizes smaller.The fabric I used was super stretchy so I knew Id have room. The lovely ladies from A Challenging Sew and The Slapdash Sewist  have extremely helpful reviews on this dress so taking all the measurements into account, I knew I wouldnt bugger up.

{ INSTRUCTIONS } The instructions are not bad overall however the complicated collar area could have been a little better explained IMO.

{ CHANGES / ALTERATIONS } The instructions call for slip stitching of the yoke facing inside. I was able to pin & sew my yoke on the inside which I was happy about….less handstitching makes me a happy camper. I did however have to slipstitch the shoulder yoke facings down but this took no time at all.

I made quite a big change to the way the belt ties work. I sewed one tie to the left side which passes under the right side so you dont see the stitch line. I then made a small-ish hole in the right side seam for the tie to pass through & wrap right around my waist & meet in the front. For the right side, I opened a small gap in the seam & sewed in the tie (which is another reason I left this side faced). In other words, I made the wrap dress a proper wrap dress with ties that wrap around the entire body. I feel its a little more secure this way & I feel like I have more control over how loose or how tight I want it to be. Vogue8827_tie Vogue8827_tie_hole

When I first sewed the collar (which is self-faced), I didnt like the drape of the extended front piece & I was debating on whether to remove the facing. Some of you lovelies urged me to leave it the way it was which I decided to do & Im glad I did. Thanks for the advice. I think if I had changed the collar to a single, unfaced piece, it just wouldnt have felt or looked right. While the second layer of fabric adds bulk, its not terribly heavy & gives the much needed body around the neck. Here is a pic of the collar extended…. Vogue8827_front_collar

For the hemming of the dress & the sleeves, I zigzagged my edges & turned them over once & stitched really close to the edge. Its not the best finish in the world but it works.

{ LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY }  Vogue call this pattern Easy…I beg to differ. I wouldnt call it easy but I wouldnt call this pattern intermediate either. Its more a combination of the two. The dress is easy if you didnt have that complicated collar. I would not recommend this pattern to a beginner unless I knew they had someone who could guide them through the collar. The rest of the dress however is pretty straight forward.

{ TIME } I didnt keep my usual time card on this dress unfortunately but I would say from layout to finishing took around 6 or 7 hours in total. I stole moments here & there to get this dress finished & made a few stupid errors along the way ie. the one yoke is a little off grain. Not sure HTF that happened!

{ SUM IT UP } I recommend this dress & I would even recommend it in a crepe or something drapey but not necessarily a jersey/knit. Ive seen a few made in cotton which work well too so dont feel obliged to make this in a stretch.  Super comfortable & incredibly flattering which reminds me of a DVF classic wrap dress, without the price tag of course. Even if I counted all my beans & decided I could afford an original DVF, I wouldnt need to because I have this gorgeous piece of berrylicious loveliness. I will get plenty of wear out of this over Autumn but I know nearing Winter I will need to layer it with some other things to make it wearable over the colder days. In hindsight, I could have gone with a much thicker jersey which might also have been easier to work with.Vogue8827_side

Would I sew this again ? Maybe, but with there being so many other superbly drafted wrap dresses I doubt it. I also have that queue to get through…

Am I happy with the overall result? Yeah, mostly. This isnt my best sewing due to the fact that the fabric is fairly troublesome but overall its a great finish.  Im super chuffed with my new dress & I cant wait to make tons of use of it over the coming cooler seasons.

Thanks for popping by x

pattern review · sewing

{ NEW LOOK 6150 } Autumn ruching…

Ive been doing a fair bit of jersey/knit sewing recently & this top caught my eye when I saw Annika’s version in a stripe. Before my pattern even arrived, I had selected fabric from my stash. I went for the floral matte jersey I had left over from the Butterick 4788 dress I made a few years ago. Can I just say until now Ive always loved seeing twin needle work & Ive always had a twin needle (three in fact) but never used them. I wasnt scared of trying it, I was just lazy to try it I guess. While I was sewing the DKNY LBD, I made a promise that I would make use of the twin needle whenever I sewed my next jersey/knit. Boy am I glad I did. How easy does the twin needle make sewing knits???  { INSANELY EASY }NewLook_6150_front Anyway, I used the twin needle for the first time on this top & its { LOVE AT FIRST STITCH }. I cant get enough. It was in no way perfect but DAMN it looks sooo much better than a single stitch. Now I just want to sew everything with a twin needle. I need to tweek my tension because I think its making too much of a welt between the 2 lines of stitching. The curse of the computerised machines means Im battling to figure out how to adjust my bobbin tension but I will conquer. Ok, moving along…

{ DESCRIPTION }  New Look 6150 knit top with various options. I sewed View E which is a basic crew neck with ruched sleeve detail

{ FABRIC USED } A floral matte jersey

{ SIZING } For the most part pretty spot on. I do have some loose fabric around the upper arms but I will get to that…

{ INSTRUCTIONS } For the view that I made, instructions were not necessary but I browsed them over anyway.

{ CHANGES / ALTERATIONS } Initially I sewed in the exact length elastic they advised via the elastic guide however I didnt think it gave me sufficient ruching so I removed the elastic, cut it slightly shorter & stretched it more to give a nicer, fuller ruching. I still would like the upper sleeve to be poofier but hey ho, I know this is not the last one Im going to make so I will make the adjustment on the next. At the underside of my sleeves I have some baggy-ness so next time I know to cut the whole sleeve slightly smaller. I did not use binding around the neck as advised, I ironed on some bias tape & then turned it over & stitched it down using the twin needle. Again, its not perfect but for a first timer using the twinny, I think its good! Also, Im not entirely sure this top needs a seam down the back to be honest. I think the next attempt will have no seam & maybe a size smaller…lets see.

{ LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY } ** Easy, however anything with sleeves automatically gets another *.

{ TIME } A couple of hours – I didnt really check on this one.

{ SUM IT UP } Such a basic T-shirt pattern but the ruched sleeves give it a little kick in the ass & I like that. To make this top fit the last of the fabric I really had to do some genius cutting which had me scratching my head for a bit but it worked & Im so glad I took the time to find a solution. I reckon I can wear this summer & winter but I am looking forward to layering this with scarves & light jackets for autumn. NewLook_6150_back Sewing has been a little slow of late because we are having an awesome summer. When I sit & sew I feel bad because the sun is shining & I should be outdoors enjoying but then when I sit in the sun & think about sewing I feel torn – first world pains huh !!   { PFFFT }NewLook_6150_sleeve

pattern review · sewing

{ VOGUE 2091 OOP } “Hang my head in shame” dress…

I am embarrassed to say Ive had this V2091 pattern, now OOP, since 2001 & never made it…hence the title!

But the shame ends there peeps. V2091_front

This little number is gorgeous in every way – comfortable, easy to sew & versatile. What more could we want from a pattern right. & since this is my first me-made LBD, I couldn’t be more satisfied with the result.

Im not sure why it took me 12 farkin’ years..since it requires no zip or button or any of that crap, it really is probably one of the most rewarding 1 hours Ive ever spent in front of my  Sapphy.  { YEEHAA }. The last DKNY pattern I sewed was the V1027 & I fell head-over-heels for that one so Im thinking I may be developing a serious crush on these DKNY numbers.V2091_backSo below, the details of whats & hows :

{ DESCRIPTION } DKNY Pullover, tapered dress with right side pleats

{ FABRIC USED } Black cotton knit jersey – 2 way stretch

{ SIZING } I cut the 12 & decided to wing it. Sizing turned out great – no thanks to the stretch & the spanx!!

{ INSTRUCTIONS } Easy, simple. Had me snookered for a second at the construction of the darn cap sleeves but otherwise A-OK.

{ CHANGES } None – however next time I do plan to increase the width of the shoulders slightly.

{ LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY } * Super easy, this is beginner frockery at its { BEST }

{ TIME } 1 hour, no serious!

{ SUM IT UP }  Easy, comfortable, simple, classy, casual but can be dressed up ….in one word { MAGIC }.V2091_boatneck

V2091_front1

I look forward to making many many many more of these. Im thinking I should be trying View C next.

Thanks for visiting lovelies…trust you all had a fabulous weekend x

chit-chat · sewing

{ VOGUE } New offerings, part II

Vogue have released their part II of new offerings for spring/summer 2013.

Im crushing on 5 of the new patterns ..vogue1348vogue1354vogue8898vogue8904vogue1357

{ All images from Vogue Patterns }

V1348 is a Tom & Linda Platt number – very basic but with the right print could look amazing. Last year I purchased a dress from Zara which was cut exactly like this however the only difference is the back zipper only went up to around the level of the middle back which I personally prefer more – gives the dress some added interest. I see this dress being a stunning LBD, uncomplicated & chic.

V1354 is a grecian style maxi from Anne Klein with stacks of potential. I love the cut of this & I love how inexcusably feminine it is. Prints or plains will work with this dress, short or long but it does look like alot of work all that gathering.  Had this been 4,5 years ago, I would totally have picked this dress for my beach wedding.

V8898 I guess we’ve seen before but for some reason this just looks effortless, both to wear & to make. Casual evening wear or to the office, this pattern is going to sell.

V8904 – funny, when I saw this Marcy Tilton I immediately thought of Mimi G 🙂 This is so her style & I bet it wont be long till we see her in this. Its simple & fun, in a rather sophisticated kinda way…i think. I would love to make it in black too.

V1357 I find this Rachel Comey kinda flirty & fun. The blouse is super cute & I love the centre pleat in the skirt.

So, these are my picks from the new collection. See anything you like ?

Thanks for stopping by & have a good sunday x