pattern review · sewing

{ PAPERCUT } Flutter blouse…

Its been quite some time since I sewed anything for myself. In my last post I mentioned that I had plans & boy have I put those plans into action. Getting going was the hardest but now that Ive hopped that procrastination hurdle, Im all fired up & ready to keep sewing sewing sewing…

While I was expecting I ordered the Papercut Flutter Blouse & could not wait to give it a go. I was curious about sizing so I waited a few months for my post-baby weight loss to steady itself & then measured myself up & went for a medium which seemed perfect until I wore it for a day & realised I could’ve actually gone for the small…..

Let me start by saying everything about this pattern is just gorgeous. Right from the ordering process, posting – which is free worldwide by the way, delivery, packaging { OH THE PACKAGING…DROOL }, the pattern itself – everything folks, just everything. They can do no wrong in my eyes. And no, Im not affiliated or being paid big bucks to say this. They just impress the crap out of me. If I were indeed pressed to give any strike I would say that I prefer sewing with a 1,5cm seam allowance as opposed to a 1cm however that would be my only micro mini grunt. Papercut_flutter1

I used this 100% viscose crepe purchased from Buttinette while on sale. Its heavy-ish but with a lovely drape. I used a white bias tape for the neckline and doubled over my hems on the sleeves & waist but my next Flutter blouse I plan to use the bias tape exposed on the neckline & edge of sleeves. Yup, already planning another Flutter – this time with the longer sleeve option. I tried to match pattern where possible but since the pattern is so random it was difficult to do everywhere. The birds just make me happy & apparently they make other people happy too because I always seem to get people asking about this blouse whenever I wear it.

Not much else to say about this top besides that its up there as one of the most satisfying sews ever for me. It was quick, easy & just what I needed to get my sewjo kickstarted. I should also just apologize up front for the crappy pic above. Im having to chose my bridges carefully these days & unfortunately time doesn’t allow for pretty photoshopped, light corrected, cropped & crazy pics. Soon hopefully…..SOON. 🙂

Take care all x

pattern review · sewing

{ DEER & DOE } Jet Black Anémone…

The Anénome pattern dropped through my postbox on a Wednesday. She was finished 2 days later! If you’d recall, I did the same thing with my first Datura so it seems to be becoming my ‘thing’ with the Deer & Doe patterns.  I just find these patterns the cutest & so easy to rustle up as long as you have all  your bits ‘n bobs together. Deer&Doe_Anemone_front

If you dont know Anénome yet, allow me to introduce her. D&D launched her beginning of March & describe her as “A fitted high waisted skirt, lined, in two versions : short with a peplum, or knee length with decorative buttons”. Now of course, you could go long with a peplum or short with buttons, the choice is yours, but I decided to go short with pepi.

Before I go on I just wanted to say that Ive overexposed these images purposefully. Black is such a difficult colour to photograph to begin with & its another reason why Im showing you this garment on Poppy  {my dress form} & not on myself.  The overexposure of the background has also made the creases of the fabric more visible because of course, Poppy is not an exact replica of me.

Ok, back to the good stuff : I found the Datura a little small cut on my usual size so I erred on the side of caution this time around & cut Ms Anénome a size larger & because I have ample ass, I added a little more for extra measure.

I used an off-cut of the jet black gabardine I used for the V8601 riding jacket I made a while ago. The gabardine is tough as nails so there was no need to do any lining – something I really do not like is lining. Because the pattern expects you to use lining, I had to make some facings. I traced directly off the pattern pieces themselves. The only thing I did differently was make sure the front & side front pieces were cut as { ONE } facing & the side back & back pieces as one piece each as well. Does that make sense ? It just eliminates the need to have the facing made up of so many pieces & therefore less bulk at the waist. I folded over & under at the zip & stitched down by hand as most patterns instruct you to do when working with facings. I added a hook & eye above my zip because the zip specified for this skirt is quite long & you know how annoying it can be to try & get a zip up without a hook ‘n eye. Deer&Doe_back

Inserting the zip was painless thanks to the invisible zip foot which I would always recommend. I sewed in my “made by me” label & stitched some magenta loops on for hanging. I like to use coloured loops because they’re so much easier to find if they contrast to the fabric. Deer&Doe_Anemone_label

I blind hemmed the entire skirt, gave it a good press & { VOILA }. Deer&Doe_Anemone_front1

She’s really cute… I think.

If you’re not into high waisted skirts, then think about this one coz she really does sit quite high but I love the shape.  I had thought about the peplums adding extra width to the hips but I think she helps to disguise wide hips rather than accentuate them so this may be my first Anénome but certainly not my last!

Till next time… Ange x

PS – Thanks all for your advice & recommendations regarding overlockers. I have narrowed my search down to overlockers only since most of you reckon stay away from the combination machines…..so stay away I shall!

 

pattern review · sewing

{ PENDRELL } Perfectly…

This soft drapey black georgette was screaming to be a Pendrell, just { SCREAMIN’}.Sewaholic_Pendrell_closeup

Call me a bore, but I really like her in black. Equal parts sophisticated & chic to borderline american football player with those puffy cap sleeves but Im all in on american football players. Dont.dare.judge.

What can I say about the Pendrell that hasn’t already been said?! Well, nuttin’ really. She’s an absolute dream to sew up & an absolute thrill to wear.  Since there are no zips, buttons or any of that crap, she’s easy but like others have reported, somewhat tight to slip on. Once on though, she sits like a glove.

I found the extended length rather ,well…extended but it gave me enough to turn up quite a wide hem which Im so in love with so I didnt mind. I also took the opportunity to make little slits to the side seams before hemming. Apart from that, I sewed in the neck binding as per the instructions but opted to omit the armhole bindings & just turned them under & sewed….easy peasy.Sewaholic_Pendrell_side

While version C is a simple princess seamed blouse, the other two versions with cap sleeves or frills bumps this pattern up from being plain jane to unique & quite pretty. I have to admit that I am in { LOVE }.

Im digging Miss Pendrell so much Im thinking I might just take the time to increase the length & width to make it a dress. { WHAAAA }.Sewaholic_Pendrell_front

Imagine. All this loveliness in dress form.

Folks, thats all for today….now onto #SewDollyClackett 🙂

pattern review · sewing

{ McCALLS 6751 } Again ?…

Yep, again…albeit this time View D.McCalls_6751_front

I had such fun with View A last week, so before it had a chance to be categorized & numerically stored (because thats how the OCD side of my personality rolls) I decided to whip up View D for some extra fun.

I dug around my stash & found this poly-cotton blend in black with pink polkas. Ive had this fabric in my stash for about 8 or 9 years so it was time to be used. Im not one to blame my tools or materials, but this fabric made the sew fairly troublesome. It slipped around while I was sewing & I noticed the overall finish not as good as I know it could be. Once it got its final press, things looked better but I still dont think this top will be worn any place other than around the house – and thats ok with me because its cool & comfie. McCalls_6751_side

As I said with View A, this is a terribly easy pattern to sew which can be turned around in one hour. For all views, the same front piece is used only swapping out the backs for whichever design you prefer. View D is more conservative compared to View A with a full covered, sloping back & cute pleats to the top for a little detail. As with View A, I french seamed side seams as well as shoulder seams however this time I also sewed down the french seam giving a top-stitch to the seams for something different.McCalls_6751_back

You can bind the edges with bias binding or do as I did by simply hemming.

Im guessing I wont stop sewing this pattern until Ive made at least all 4 options….so you will have to bear with me lovelies 🙂 Since this pattern is so perfect (& easy) for summer, Im making the most of the 35 degree plus weather & getting some last summer sewing in while I can. McCalls_6751_detail

In other news, I also wanted to thank Red Point Tailor for the thoughtful Super Sweet Blogging Award from a few weeks back. I absolutely appreciate every single visitor to my blog, but love reading  your blogs even more 🙂 For me, the community of sewing bloggers is a positive reminder every day that there are wonderfully talented & thoughtful women (and men) out there always ready to inspire.

Thanks for stopping by x

pattern review · sewing

{ VOGUE 2923 OOP } Clouding around blouson…

Another one of those patterns I have been wanting to make for ages but I was fraught with fear to cut into the “real” piece of fabric until I saw what it would look like on me so I decided to make a wearable muslin…I know, { ME MAKE A MUSLIN }…so I used this poly-cotton blend that I have love for..but not that much love for ifyouknowwhatimean. The pattern specifies a “moderate stretch only” & since rules mean absolutely blow all to me, I decided to wing it with the polycotton which doesnt give as good an idea on the final drape, but definitely gives me enough green light to go on & cut the real deal.

Im quite keen to sew the little jacket included in this pattern too – I like the wavy extended collar down the front & I love that its unlined with a two-piece sleeve…right up my alley. With all the success Ive been having with DKNY lately, Im convinced the jacket will be a hoot.
Anyway, here’s the deets on the blouson – V2923_top_front

V2923_back

{ DESCRIPTION } V2923, now OOP, DKNY loose-fitting, blouson, pull-over with keyhole back opening, thin shoulder straps and elastic waist.

{ FABRIC USED } Poly-cotton blend in black with print. Can you see these are flowers ? Sure you can…then why do I keep saying cherries….dang, must be because Im eating cherries in copious amounts at the moment!

{ SIZING } I cut my usual size for this & it absolutely fits like it should. It is loose-fitting & adjustments can be made to straps.

{ INSTRUCTIONS } I did not use them…therefore I completely forgot to make the keyhole feature to the back – alas, I couldn’t care a less I forgot it.  I sewed the sides using french seams which worked really well & gave such a clean finish to the inside.

{ CHANGES }   Besides the change in suggested fabric, the only other change I made was using black satin ribbon for the straps instead of making it with the same fabric.

{ LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY } * Super easy!

{ TIME } Start to finish, 1 hour.

{ SUM IT UP }  Easy, comfortable, simple – can be made with your eyes closed to be honest.  A great little top that can be worn alone or under a blazer for work – quite versatile really. Because I used the poly-cotton instead of a stretchier, more drapey fabric the blouson is a tad billowy at the bottom but I kinda dig that I can really eat in this & not have to worry about tummy bulge..or at least thats my story!V2923_front_blazer

Also, I think this top could quite easily fit into any maternity wardrobe…with the elasticated waist & the lovely drape, it would absolutely make space for growing tummies & boobies.

Oh & before I forget – I know Ive been reviewing a lot of OOP patterns recently & if your’e anything like me, I have choice words when I cant get hold of an OOP – drives me batty…something to do with being a gemini I think. So if that is the case with you, here are my sincerest apologies { SORRYYYYY }. There, now I feel better.

Thanks for stopping by x

pattern review · sewing

{ VOGUE 2091 OOP } “Hang my head in shame” dress…

I am embarrassed to say Ive had this V2091 pattern, now OOP, since 2001 & never made it…hence the title!

But the shame ends there peeps. V2091_front

This little number is gorgeous in every way – comfortable, easy to sew & versatile. What more could we want from a pattern right. & since this is my first me-made LBD, I couldn’t be more satisfied with the result.

Im not sure why it took me 12 farkin’ years..since it requires no zip or button or any of that crap, it really is probably one of the most rewarding 1 hours Ive ever spent in front of my  Sapphy.  { YEEHAA }. The last DKNY pattern I sewed was the V1027 & I fell head-over-heels for that one so Im thinking I may be developing a serious crush on these DKNY numbers.V2091_backSo below, the details of whats & hows :

{ DESCRIPTION } DKNY Pullover, tapered dress with right side pleats

{ FABRIC USED } Black cotton knit jersey – 2 way stretch

{ SIZING } I cut the 12 & decided to wing it. Sizing turned out great – no thanks to the stretch & the spanx!!

{ INSTRUCTIONS } Easy, simple. Had me snookered for a second at the construction of the darn cap sleeves but otherwise A-OK.

{ CHANGES } None – however next time I do plan to increase the width of the shoulders slightly.

{ LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY } * Super easy, this is beginner frockery at its { BEST }

{ TIME } 1 hour, no serious!

{ SUM IT UP }  Easy, comfortable, simple, classy, casual but can be dressed up ….in one word { MAGIC }.V2091_boatneck

V2091_front1

I look forward to making many many many more of these. Im thinking I should be trying View C next.

Thanks for visiting lovelies…trust you all had a fabulous weekend x

pattern review · sewing

{ VOGUE 8601 } Riding Jacket

{FINISHED} I can hardly believe it! Imagine running a marathon, getting to the end only to realise you missed your target time…elation that you still alive but disappointment with your final result…thats how this jacket feels. Ive been working on it on & off for months (if not a year) and now its finally finished (sans button/s) and I just feel a little ‘flat’ about it. There’s puckering to be fixed on the collar and one armscye. I was so frustrated by it all that making the small adjustments was just not in me…I needed time to breathe – hence throwing myself into the frilly burdastyle blouse & the DKNY Vogue 1027.

I must admit, Poppy does not do justice to the fit. It does look much nicer when I have it on but for the sake of photographing it…well, you know. My intentions were to buy the remote for my camera so I can self-shoot but would you believe Nikon dont make a compatible remote for my model. { IRRITATED FACE }. Im looking into an alternative but until then…you got Poppy 🙂V8601_riding_jacket_front1

{ DESCRIPTION }  Vogue 8061 is a close-fitting, lined to edge with princess seams in upper section. Darts to lower section, back tails with slit and an option on buttons and collar. I sewed View D/E with one button closure & no contrast collar.

{ FABRIC USED } black gabardine which I purchased in the UK about 2 years back & I used a fushia pink somethin’-somethin’ for the body lining, with the arms lined in a black poly.  The poly was more slippery than the pink & I prefer my arms to slide easily through jacket arms!V8601_riding_jacket_lining

{ SIZING } I cut my usual size and it fits well, bar the issues I will speak about below.

{ INSTRUCTIONS } I followed the instructions as they are & did not add any extra tailoring foundations as you might have seen some other sewers had done on PR.V8601_riding_jacket_silhouette

{ CONSTRUCTION / ALTERATIONS }  I didnt want my jacket to be a tailored coat but something a little more grungy & casual…hence not going into too much tailoring. In hindsight, I would have constructed the lining differently as Vogue requests you sew the sleeves by hand AFTER. It would have saved me alot of time & trouble by sewing the arms onto the rest of the lining before feeding them through the arms and just hand stitching the wrists in AKA the V8438 coat I made here. Far easier solution with much less fuss. I added some black top-stitching to my fuschia lining for a little interest on the inside. I did not do all the seams, just the princess seams running right around.

This pattern requires a fair amount of hand stitching (if you construct the way they tell you too), otherwise its not a difficult pattern but neither is it beginner level.  I had to take in the sleeves quite substantially too so bear this in mind. I would also have preferred the sleeves to have been made of 2 pieces making fitting a little easier IMO. I would also prefer to have the option of adding a sleeve with buttons so I would definitely do this next time..if there is ever a next time!! I also disliked the way they ask for the shoulder pads to be fitted AFTER the lining is in…why??? The jacket would look so much better with the shoulder pads under the lining & hidden!!!!!!!

I was waiting a little to post this review because I had not found the right button for the front. On Saturday I was at the store in Vienna & I purchased a button I thought would work but once I was home & looked at it, it just doesnt work & my stash of buttons has come up with nothing suitable….the quest to find the right button therefore continues. In the meantime, I might just sew a plain black button until I find the right match.V8601_riding_jacket_tails

{ LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY } ***

{ SUM IT UP } Im not sure I would make this coat again since it is quite unique with the “tails” however I enjoyed the process & would recommend provided you are looking for something quite unique.  V8601_riding_jackt_front2

Thanks for stopping by x